What is Microneedling and How Does it Work? A Complete Guide for Beginners

When it comes to aesthetic treatments and skincare, microneedling is increasingly mentioned as one of the most effective, non-invasive procedures that can improve the appearance and quality of the skin. Although the name of the treatment might sound somewhat intimidating, microneedling is actually considered by dermatologists and cosmeticians to be one of the most comfortable aesthetic methods, and its results can be extremely impressive.

Also known as collagen induction therapy, microneedling has become one of the most popular aesthetic treatments worldwide because it stimulates the natural skin renewal process, enhances the production of collagen and elastin, accelerates skin circulation, and over time provides a rejuvenated and refreshed look to the facial skin, softens fine lines, scars, and evens out skin tone.

What is Microneedling?

Microneedling is a minimally invasive procedure that involves the use of a device equipped with fine, thin needles that penetrate the upper layers of the skin. Typically, these micro-needles range in length from 0.5 mm to 2.5 mm and create very small, superficial punctures in the skin. These punctures are deep enough to trigger the body’s biological response to injury, yet shallow enough not to cause actual damage to the skin. When the skin is ‘injured’, the body automatically initiates a healing process that stimulates the production of new layers of collagen and elastin, as well as the creation of new skin cells.

The microneedling technique is most commonly used on the face, but it can also be applied to other parts of the body, such as the neck, décolleté, and even on acne scars on the back, stretch marks on the legs, and similar areas.

How Does Microneedling Affect Our Skin?

Our skin consists of several layers. The outermost layer is called the epidermis, beneath which lies the dermis, containing collagen and elastin, the two main components of healthy, youthful skin. Over the years, the levels of these proteins decrease, leading to the appearance of wrinkles, sagging skin, and various imperfections.

Microneedling needles reach the dermal layer and create microscopic channels that enhance:

• Collagen and Elastin Renewal: Microneedling initiates reparative processes. The skin ‘fears’ potential damage, thus starting an increased production of collagen, making the skin tighter and plumper.
• Increased Absorption of Active Ingredients: After the treatment, the skin becomes temporarily more permeable, allowing cosmetic products, serums, and ampoules to penetrate deeper and more effectively. This means that the benefits of active ingredients in creams and serums are doubled, as they now reach the dermal layer more easily.

The micro-wounds made by microneedling needles minimally damage the surface of the skin, cause minimal bleeding, and immediately after the treatment, start a cascade reaction of skin renewal. The skin reacts to micro-injuries by accumulating growth factors. Neovascularization and neocollagenesis occur with the migration of fibroblasts, and type three collagen begins forming just 5 days post-treatment.

Thus, the first results in the form of refreshed, brighter, tighter, and clearer skin are visible after just a few days, while the true results of collagen synthesis are visible after 3 to 4 weeks, as collagen fibers and capillaries take time to form. The maturation of new, young skin can continue up to 2 years after the treatment, with the final result being youthful, tight, and healthy skin.

What are the indications for microneedling?

1. Deep wrinkles
2. Reduced elasticity and skin tone
3. Acne scars
4. Pore minimization
5. Revitalization of tired skin
6. Hyperpigmentation
7. Androgenic alopecia
8. Stretch marks and their removal

What are the contraindications for microneedling?

Microneedling is generally safe for most skin types and tones, including sensitive skin. However, there are some exceptional situations where caution should be exercised or consultation with a dermatologist is advised:

• Active acne, herpes, or other inflammatory skin changes
• Severe skin diseases, such as tumors, psoriasis, or eczema
• Recent cosmetic procedures such as chemical peels or laser treatments (it is recommended to wait at least several weeks)
• Autoimmune diseases, blood clotting disorders, diabetes
• Use of certain medications
• Pregnancy and breastfeeding are not absolute contraindications, but consultation with a doctor is always advised during these periods.

What does a microneedling treatment look like in a salon or clinic?

In cosmetic salons and dermatological clinics, microneedling is performed using a professional, medical device called a dermapen.

The dermapen is a newer generation device that resembles a pen. When using the dermapen, the length of the needles is adjusted according to the type of issue being addressed, as well as the area of the body being treated (face, neck, décolleté). The dermapen punctures the skin at an angle of about 90 degrees, making the treatment minimally uncomfortable. The needles are disposable and are thrown away after use, with completely new ones used for the next client. The procedure typically includes the following steps:

• Facial Cleansing: A cosmetician or dermatologist first thoroughly cleanses your face, removing impurities, makeup, and excess sebum.
• Application of Local Anesthetic (optional): If you have a low pain threshold or if the needles are longer (1 mm or more), an anesthetic cream may be applied to numb the skin to ensure maximum comfort.
• Microneedling: The specialist passes over the skin with a special device equipped with micro-needles. You may feel mild discomfort or tingling, but the treatment is usually not too painful. The duration of the treatment depends on the area being treated and the condition of the skin, but it typically lasts about 20-30 minutes.
• Application of Serums and Masks: After the treatment, nourishing serums, hyaluronic acid, or soothing masks are applied to the skin. At this point, the skin is highly receptive to the absorption of active ingredients.
• Sun Protection: Since the skin is more sensitive after the treatment, it is necessary to apply a high SPF sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher).

At Bodyvine Aesthetics, we also apply the most advanced RF Microneedling, also known as radiofrequency microneedling. It is an innovative procedure that combines the power of microneedling with the therapeutic effects of radiofrequency energy. The combination of microneedling and radiofrequency results in a dual-action approach, targeting both the superficial and deep layers of the skin for comprehensive rejuvenation.

RF microneedling treatment is suitable for all skin types, requires minimal downtime, and can be performed on various parts of the body, including the face, neck, chest, arms, abdomen, and more.

Microneedling at Home

While professional microneedling performed under the supervision of an expert yields the best results, there is also the possibility to conduct the treatment at home using home-use dermarollers or dermapens. Their needles are significantly shorter (0.15 to 0.5 mm) and less sharp as they are not intended for use by professionals. As expected, the effect is drastically less significant compared to professional microneedling treatments.

Home microneedling is primarily used to improve circulation and refresh the complexion. If you decide to use it, pay attention to the quality of the device you choose and strictly follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Hygiene is crucial, so be sure to disinfect the device with alcohol before and after each use. Your facial skin must be impeccably clean before treatment. Never share your dermaroller with others—it is a personal tool.

What to Expect After the Treatment?

Immediately after the microneedling procedure, the skin may be slightly red and sensitive, but this usually subsides within 24 to 48 hours. Some people may also notice slight peeling of the skin, which is perfectly normal. Full recovery takes 3 days from the treatment. Makeup can be used 24 hours after the treatment. It’s important to avoid heavy peels or irritating products for several days to allow the skin to regenerate peacefully.

Visible results from microneedling do not appear immediately. It takes 4 to 6 weeks to notice an increase in collagen and elastin. For optimal results, a series of 3 to 6 treatments is recommended, spaced 4 to 6 weeks apart. After achieving the desired result, you can periodically repeat the treatment as a sort of ‘maintenance’.

Possible Side Effects and Risks

Although microneedling is generally considered a safe and effective procedure, certain adverse reactions can sometimes occur. This usually includes temporary redness, irritation, and dryness. In rare cases, if hygiene standards are not adhered to or non-sterile needles are used, there is a risk of infection. Therefore, it is of utmost importance to maintain the cleanliness of the device, hands, and skin, use quality products, and follow the doctor’s recommendations after treatment.

How to Maximize Results?

To fully benefit from microneedling, pay attention to:

• Consistency: The best results are achieved with regular treatments. One treatment may provide slight improvement, but a series of treatments offers much more significant and long-lasting effects.
• Proper skincare between treatments: Use gentle, moisturizing products and avoid overly aggressive ingredients while the skin is healing. Serums rich in antioxidants and hyaluronic acid are particularly beneficial.
• Sun protection: Skin sensitivity is increased after microneedling, so it is essential to use a high SPF cream daily, even on cloudy days.
• Combining with other treatments: Microneedling can be combined with chemical peels, PRP (platelet-rich plasma) therapy, or certain laser treatments for even better results. Of course, this should be discussed with a professional to properly schedule treatments and avoid unwanted interactions.